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 Post subject: Let's discuss "Accurizing"

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My recent interest in bolt action rifles has taken me to study the term "Accurizing", which I understand, is the process of improving the accuracy of a firearm.

Accuracy is, in lay man terms, is the ability to hit exactly what one is aiming at, while to ensure that one is able to hit the same place over and over again in a repeatable fashion, are the goals of accurizing.

Based on my google search, I've been able to figure this much out that there are three areas which factor in while accurizing a firearm:

Usability: This refers to enhancements that give the shooter a more consistent hold on the firearm, and a more consistent trigger pull.

Tolerances: This covers parts that fit together better and will shift less or shift more consistently under recoil. Moving parts still have to move, however, and finding the right compromise is, as I understand, more art than science.

Harmonics: Barrels vibrate under the shock of firing. These vibrations can be minimized or tuned to minimize their impact on accuracy. Generally the harmonic effects are proportional to the square of the barrel length, and so are generally only of concern in rifles but not handguns.

Are there any other areas in addition to the above? Ofcourse, besides the shooter's own accuracy. ;)

I understand that, from the shooter's perspective, he has to be consistent in what he does. He has to get everything to happen the same way for every shot and this is key to producing small groups. Based on what I've learnt so far here, the keys to firing an accurate shot are a firm but not overtight grip, the ability to get a good sight picture, and a controlled squeeze of the trigger. The ability to manage recoil is also important in heavily recoiling calibers, both to aid in possible additional shots, and to prevent the user from developing a fear of the recoil. However, this is the part that shooter has to master.

What I would like our forum's experienced shooters to discuss here in this thread, are the:

a) factors which help in accurizing the firearm.?

b) What are the things we need to look at in a firearm (specially a rifle) to ensure that it will be accurate?.

c) What can we do in a stock / off-the-shelf rifle to accurize it?


Mods: If this topic has been discussed previously, please refer me to that thread.

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 Post subject: Re: Let's discuss "Accurizing"

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Good topic FK. I think we will be able to generate a better discussion if you specify the type of firearm here, ie, rifle, pistol or revolver and we discuss them separately.

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 Post subject: Re: Let's discuss "Accurizing"

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Thanks KBW.

I would like the discussion to revolve around rifles - from .22lr to 243 to 7mm/30-06/308 size calibers.

Both bolt action as well as semi-auto, may be covered.

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 Post subject: Re: Let's discuss "Accurizing"

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I would like our expert members LAGS and Ghazi sb to share their knowledge and experience here.

However, in the meantime, I'll share an old post by one of our members here. I think this quoted post only covers the USABILITY and TOLERANCE aspect to a certain degree, whereas the HARMONICS aspects are not covered here.

LAGS, Ghazi sb and other members may please add to this as they wish.



Quote:
IMPROVING THE ACCURACY OF A FACTORY RIFLE

Frequently I answer threads with people wondering what is a good, budget rifle to buy for hunting or entry level target shooting, and the OP wants to know what are some improvements that can be done that don’t cost a lot of money.

For this thread, we will assume that you have done your research and you have found a bolt action rifle that fits your budget, have found a scope and rings that you like, can afford, and can’t afford ( or don’t care ) to reload at this time.

Having the scope correctly mounted is crucial, as is having the right length of pull on the stock, to ensure you can squeeze the accuracy out of the rifle that you want. Again, we will assume that you have had this entry level stuff done already.

1. Trigger Job.

I can’t stress the importance of having a good, crisp, clean breaking trigger on your weapon. Trigger pull weights vary by the type of application (as “light” as 2 ounces on a benchrest competition rifle and as “heavy” as 3.5# of 4.5# for a winter edition hunting rifle).

A really good trigger has very little “creep”. This is the amount of travel from untouched to the point that the trigger has resistance just before the trigger goes to work.

The trigger should “break like a glass rod” when it goes bang. That is, the pressure should increase very slightly before it “breaks” and the rifle goes off. This process is in reference to having a glass rod, supported between a couple of points and slowly loading weight onto the middle. When the “glass” has had enough, it will not begin to sag, or weaken and crack, it will out right break. Your trigger should break the same way.

After the break, your trigger should have very little “over travel” before it resets. Most factory triggers have over travel that is considered “extensive”. Over travel isn’t a killer to accuracy, but it will definitely affect your ability to get back on target quickly.

Trigger jobs come in a couple of forms. Reworking of the factory trigger, or putting in a replacement, after market trigger.

Reworking of the factory trigger is best left to a professional gunsmith, because you usually are permanently altering the metal surfaces of 2 or 3 levers that make the trigger work. This process usually takes an hour or so and would cost anywhere from $50 to $100 depending on the gun shop.

Aftermarket triggers come in various forms, usually they are custom designed for your rifle, almost always feature a full three lever design, and come pre-tuned to a specific pull weight.

Aftermarket triggers are considered “better” but that is not always the case. If your gunsmith is skilled in a good trigger job, he can usually save you a hundred or so dollars by reworking your factory trigger into a great shooter.

Every gunsmith has weapons in their shop that are either waiting to be picked up, or are their own work. Ask them to try one of their custom trigger jobs.

It should have very little creep, a crisp, clean break and very little travel to reset.

On a boltgun, it’s important to check for a trigger that is too light and could result in a “slam fire”. This condition is when the bolt is closed aggressively, as if you are quickly chambering another round because you are amped over your deer/elk, and the weapon goes off. If this happens, the weapon’s trigger is TOO LIGHT and is UNSAFE. Any weapon that “slam fires” needs to be reworked until that condition no longer exists.

If you try one of your smiths’ triggers and it meets those criteria, you have got yourself a good one.

A reworked factory trigger is always going to cost you less money than purchasing an aftermarket trigger and having it installed. Unless, of course, you got a REALLY great deal on that trigger.

The factory trigger is the easiest, cheapest and should probably be one of your first 2 or 3 changes to improve the accuracy of your recent addition.

2) The Glass/Pillar Bed Job

Most factory rifles do not come with free floated barrels and they do not come with actions that are glass and/or pillar bedded.

Why is this important?

A rifle action has a ton of stressors that are placed on it when it is trying to contain a small explosion and force a non-threaded round into a threaded bore of a barrel.

You see, “rifling” is really the “lands” and “grooves” that you can see in your barrel. The high points and the low points are set in a spiral to get your rifles’ bullet spinning on an axis to obtain the ultimate accuracy. The problem is; when a bullet leaves the brass cartridge, it has NO desire to start spinning on an axis; it has to be forced into that condition.

At the point that your rifles’ firing pin sets of the primer, which ignites the gun powder, which sends the bullet flying, there is recoil. Your rifle action has to absorb that pressure. The pressure is a back, or North to South pressure, in line with the rifle stock and barrel.

Now, when the bullet leaves the brass cartridge and is forced into the threads of the barrel, the rifle action is asked to absorb this pressure, which is West to East, at almost the same time.

Now, most rifle actions have a grand total of ( 2 ) WHOLE action screws that are to absorb all this change in explosive energy, mating the rifle’s action to your rifle’s stock.

So, how does this relate to improving accuracy JD?

If your rifle’s action has two screws that mate the action to the stock, and if your barrel is not floated off your stock, it would stand to reason that outside pressures on that stock could influence your action and barrel to do something OTHER than what you want.

You have to realize, the action is supporting that 22” or 26” barrel you have just hanging out there. You ever try to hold a 26” broom handle out to the side and let your kid, or your dog jump, up and swing on it? Give it a try and let me know how good you are at keeping the handle in line with where you are aiming it.

Stocks are mass produced. They are not custom fit to your rifle action at the factory that just purchased 100,000 units. It would be nice if that was the case, but it isn’t. And it’s twice as bad if you like a wood stock, because wood swells, cracks and changes dimensions based on a lot of factors, not the least of which is humidity.

So, how do you defend against that??

You take a solid rifle action and you build a base for it that is like your hand going into a really comfortable glove. The glove insulates, protects and keeps your hand happy. A glass, and/or pillar, bed job is just that.

This action creates a custom, hand in glove fit, for your rifle action. The increase is a couple of thousandths’ of an inch, but done correctly, it free floats your barrel from ANY outside influence and it gives the action a complete, custom fit base. When the screws are tightened, that action isn’t going ANYWHERE due to outside forces under ignition.

A good fiberglass bedding job is probably going to cost you $75-$150 bucks, done correctly, but the results will almost always speak for themselves on a factory rifle. A free floated barrel and an action with a nice, secure, base that won’t move or change under stress of ignition allows for the shooter to maintain more consistency from one shot to another.

The more things that are the same from one shot to the next leads to tighter groups, leads to better scores and better overall shooting.

So, there are two, easy, cheap and pretty quick “upgrades” to your factory rifle that, done properly, will definitely tighten up your groups and make your rifle shoot much better.


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 Post subject: Re: Let's discuss "Accurizing"

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Thanx for the post SA, and as you said, i would also like some feedback from Ghazi sb and Lags, since their expriences would be enlightening to us all.

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 Post subject: Re: Let's discuss "Accurizing"

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Mr. LAGS where are you sir. We need you here :)

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 Post subject: Re: Let's discuss "Accurizing"

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I'm a big fan of bolt action rifles with a good strong action, the biggest diameter bull barrel I can carry (example, 1 inch non-tapered), trigger set to 2lb let off, and hand loaded ammunition tuned for the rifle.

That's been a formula that's worked very well for me so far. 5 rounds of .223 remington from a remmie 700 VSSF into 9mm group at 100 meters has been my best effort so far. :-)

Kind regards,
Mark

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 Post subject: Re: Let's discuss "Accurizing"

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markypoos wrote:
I'm a big fan of bolt action rifles with a good strong action, the biggest diameter bull barrel I can carry (example, 1 inch non-tapered), trigger set to 2lb let off, and hand loaded ammunition tuned for the rifle.

That's been a formula that's worked very well for me so far. 5 rounds of .223 remington from a remmie 700 VSSF into 9mm group at 100 meters has been my best effort so far. :-)

Kind regards,
Mark

9mm group is very very good. It is like .4" group. Excellent Sir. Do you have any pics of that?

But I am still waiting input from other seniors. Where is LAGS, Ghazi, KBW and Mustanir brothers?

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 Post subject: Re: Let's discuss "Accurizing"

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That is pretty tight group, markypoos.

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 Post subject: Re: Let's discuss "Accurizing"

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I can't lay my hands on the target at the moment, I think I might have it nailed up at work, but here is one of the targets from when I was working up my hand loads:

Image

Only 13mm, but still not bad. :D

Kind regards,
Mark

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 Post subject: Re: Let's discuss "Accurizing"

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markypoos wrote:
Only 13mm, but still not bad. :D


:o :violence-shootself:

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 Post subject: Re: Let's discuss "Accurizing"

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That is a very nice group, and I'm very happy with the rifle, but I can always strive to improve myself and my gear.

There is a guy in the club with a Savage bolt action with heavy fluted barrel and a fast twist.

With 69 grain projectiles and winchester powder, he can regularly shoot the heads off matches at 100 yards.

Image

I'm surely envious. :mrgreen:

Mark

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 Post subject: Re: Let's discuss "Accurizing"

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markypoos wrote:
With 69 grain projectiles and winchester powder, he can regularly shoot the heads off matches at 100 yards.


:o
I am not envious, i am jealous :snooty:


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 Post subject: Re: Let's discuss "Accurizing"

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:o
WOW!

Which scope you use for these 100 yds shoots?!?!

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 Post subject: Re: Let's discuss "Accurizing"

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markypoos wrote:
That is a very nice group, and I'm very happy with the rifle, but I can always strive to improve myself and my gear.

There is a guy in the club with a Savage bolt action with heavy fluted barrel and a fast twist.

With 69 grain projectiles and winchester powder, he can regularly shoot the heads off matches at 100 yards.

Image

I'm surely envious. :mrgreen:

Mark

This is simply amazing :shock:

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 Post subject: Re: Let's discuss "Accurizing"

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Mangloo Ramzani wrote:
:o
WOW!

Which scope you use for these 100 yds shoots?!?!


I use a Weaver 4-16x40 with adjustable objective, and a very fine cross hair with a small dot in the centre of the cross hair.

Target Dot I think the reticule is called.

Love it!

Kind regards,
Mark

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 Post subject: Re: Let's discuss "Accurizing"

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Thanks for the update Mark! :D

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 Post subject: Re: Let's discuss "Accurizing"

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Sorry guys but I didnt read this thread untill now.
There are lots of things you can do to Accurize your guns yourself.
But there are a lot of General things that can be done, but some things just wont work on some guns.

IE. You can not Glass Bed an SKS rifle.
Or Free floating a barrel is Not Always the best option.
I think it would be best for me to give specific advice on how to check for areas of concern that could be improved, if you start a thread on that rifle that you already OWN , in the gunsmith thread.
Accurizing is tedious and time consuming, but the results are well worth it.
And for the most part, lots of accurizing, does not envolve any special gunsmith tools.
Just regular household tools are needed.

PS.
If you need my help or have something you need me to comment on.
Just Slap me up side of the head on a PM.
Sometimes I dont read all threads.

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