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 Post subject: Re: GUN CLEANING 101

Master at Arms

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I think we discussed it earlier also in detail. If you are storing your weapon for some period than it's a good thing to do. But please make sure the barrel is cleaned before firing. Oiling the barrel of a gun which is being carried for SD is not a great idea. Oil will keep attratcting dust which is not good. Please be advised that sand particles have a higher hardness on the rockwell scale as compared to the hardest steel and that means it will scratch the barrel (harder particle cutting through the softest steel).

What is the thought behind oiling the barrels, BTW. May be I am not grasping the real question?
regards

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 Post subject: Re: GUN CLEANING 101

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I was told that oiling the barrel will protect it from moisture and rust..

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 Post subject: Re: GUN CLEANING 101

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the only way to protect the barrel is regular cleaning, the using a brush to take out all the possible oil. if high moisture is suspected such as summer months and is a ccw weapon then cleaning becomes a routine; a brush sprayed with wd40 and couple of whisks thru barrel thats all.
Take a range session with the gun every month and the bullet will clean and polish any possibility of rust away. When does rust come in?? ask your self... what is the first symptom??
The barrel shows the rust with barrel polish dampening....
IMHO if u take it to range and clean it this question should not arise at all.

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 Post subject: Re: GUN CLEANING 101

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Today at Karsaaz range, I came across a very handy tool. Its called a "PULL THROUGH". Its like a modified dog leash, has an anchor at one end, which is followed by a thick soft nylon type rope which has steel brush wrapping in the beginning and then about a meter long of the rope. Pull the slide and lock the chamber, insert the anchor from the chamber into the barrel and pull it out from the other end. This will first brush the barrel, and then the rope will clean it off the residue as it is a meter long and runs quite tightly inside the barrel.

I had used it on the Shadow TS Hybrid today, and checked the barrel - spick and span..!!!

A very efficient and a handy tool to use after every range session.

Image

Courtesy of HMR again ... thank you :)

Cheers...

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 Post subject: Re: GUN CLEANING 101

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Pull through is also referred to as "Bore Snake".

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 Post subject: Re: GUN CLEANING 101

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Yes, bore snake!
For the guns, its the "Aasteen ka saamnp"!!! lol

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 Post subject: Re: GUN CLEANING 101

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Bore snakes are caliber specific, it cleans only barrel and a very useful piece in field but you still need to get rid of other gunk present in moving parts.
Hoppe's copper solvent should be a must for rifle shooters,, if you are a plinker, you need to get rid of copper fouling every 100/200 rounds of ammo, otherwise your groups start spreading out.

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 Post subject: Re: GUN CLEANING 101

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+1 Mustanir bhai.

Gentlemen, please do not mix Hoppe's Copper Solvent with Hoppe's Powder Solvent. Both are different products for different purposes.

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 Post subject: Re: GUN CLEANING 101

Rifleman

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Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2014 7:35 pm
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Nicely explained, Thanks.
SA wrote:
Gun Cleaning 101

One of the reasons why I hesitated in starting a dedicated thread on this was because there are so many opinions about gun cleaning among gun owners / enthusiasts and I did not wanted to start an argument on 'this way is better' or 'that way is better'.

Therefore, before I start this, let me just say that what I have shared below is a way to clean handguns, and not necessarily the only way to do it. If you or someone you know has a different way of cleaning handguns, that's perfectly fine. As long as your handgun gets cleaned often enough to function reliably, it's all good (or like they say 'aaal is well'. ;)

Disclaimer: TGF assumes that you are an adult and are capable of and will read and carefully follow the directions printed on every good gun cleaning kit, solvent, oil, etc pack. Follow the instructions on the pack, wear the safety gear, work in a well-ventilated place and if you have any doubts about your ability to do this safely, find a knowledgeable person to walk you through the process personally. The views and opinions expressed below are my own.

I wrote this taking inspiration from an American gun-enthusiast Kathy Jackson who has given a very detailed pictorial on how to clean a handgun on her website. I have given it's link at the end of this post and would strongly recommend everyone to go through that link and read it thoroughly.



How often should I clean my Handgun?

Well, it depends. If the gun is primarily mean't for range use (not competition level) rather than a defensive gun, you can probably allow the crud to build up a little bit before cleaning it, even though it is usually somewhat easier to remove the crud when the cleaning is done immediately. Modern powder is not corrosive, and so it won't eat its way through the metal of your barrel if it gets left in there for awhile. The fouling can and often does affect reliability, however. Uncleaned guns are more apt to jam when you most need them. Because the crud can slow down the slide, dirty semi-automatic firearms are prone to failures to feed or failures to completely eject the spent cases. Uncleaned revolvers are prone to binding up, and the double-action trigger can become difficult or impossible to pull if the cylinder isn't turning easily. Poorly-cleaned or uncleaned firearms are therefore far less reliable than their properly cleaned and lubricated counterparts.

For this reason, I recommend that one should clean his/her defensive handgun immediately after every trip to the range, even if you fired only 5-10 rounds. Since you will be betting your life on the function of your gun, it's a good idea to keep it as clean as you can, in order to avoid a big screw-up.


Clean it yourself!

Cleaning your own gun helps you become familiar with how your gun works. Although the mechanical function of the gun may not be fascinating to you, it's still a good idea to know how it works. That way, if it ever stops working when you need it most, you will have a good idea of what went wrong and whether you will need a gunsmith to fix it. Taking the gun down and putting it back together again on a regular basis also helps you develop confidence in your gun-handling skills. This confidence carries over to how you handle the firearm on the range and in real life situations. Self-cleaning also gives you the opportunity to visually inspect all the inner pieces of your gun, so that you can spot the signs of wear and tear and are able to take necessary action on timely basis.


Basic Cleaning Kit

I've seem Hoppe's guys and I've seen Otis guys. I, am a mix. I select the tools I need from each of these two kits and use them as necessary. For beginners, I would advise that they start with this basic pistol cleaning kit from Hoppe's and once they get the hang of things, they can add other kits, tools, etc as they feel appropriate.

Image

This kit is available at all good gun stores in major cities of Pakistan within the price range of Rs. 2,500 to 3,500. Inside it, you will find:

Inside the basic cleaning kit, you will usually find:

A bottle of Nitro Powder Solvent
A bottle of lubricating oil
A rod
A box of jags, brushes and patch holder.
A box of patches.

In addition to the above kit, I use the following tools from OTIS Universal cleaning kit (available for Rs. 1,000):

- Short A/P Receiver Brush;
- 9mm Caliber Brush;
- 9mm Slotted Tip (Patch holder);
- Curved Locking Lug Pick;
- Straight Locking Lug Pick;
- Rod Handles (Male Female);
- Locking Lug Scraper.

I prefer Brunox spray over WD-40, which, as per my observation, leaves a sticky feel once it evaporates.

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The bore-cleaning brush is attached to the rod and normally the brush has to be purchased separately because they come in different sizes for different calibers of guns. A 9mm bore brush is too small to effectively clean the bore of a .45 ACP firearm, for example, while the .45 ACP bore brush will not even fit within the barrel of the 9mm gun. So make sure you get the correct size of brush for your gun.

In brushes, you can have plastic, stainless steel, and bronze ones. For basic cleaning, the bronze/brass brush rather than of plastic or stainless steel should be used. The only reason to switch to a plastic bore brush is if you are going to be using a separately purchased, super-powerful solvent (which the Hoppe's Nitro Powder Solvent is 'not') designed to dissolve copper fouling, because bronze brushes will also be dissolved by such solvents. In all other cases, the bronze brushes are far easier to use and will get the gun cleaner with less hard work on your part than the plastic brushes will.

After a few uses, you will run out of the kit-supplied cleaning patches. When that happens, you can go out and buy more from gun stores (prominent, bigger, well-equpped ones only). Or you can simply make your own by cutting similar-sized squares out of old cotton vests. ( Own experience: An old Jockey vest gives you at least fifty patches if you know how to cut it properly :) ) Yes, I am a cheapskate.... and proud of it.


Other Cleaning Supplies

There are other supplies you may want to have on hand. Some of these are simply nice to have, while others come close to being essential. Most of them can be found lying around your house. An old toothbrush. You can purchase a specially-designed scrub brush in the same basic shape (as shown above in picture). A plain old toothbrush will do just as well. Do make sure it's been very thoroughly rinsed to remove old toothpaste grit. Besides the toothbrush, you will require cotton swabs, cleaning rags and safety gear. Also, to avoid any :violence-rapidfire: from your wife, be careful to keep any spilled or dripped solvents from destroying the finish on your furniture. Get a few old newspapers, lay them on top of a last plastic bag/sack and then do your stuff. If you're comfortable using surgical (Latex) gloves (which I am not), then use them to keep your hands safe.


Now, the CLEANING PART

The link below is of one of the webpages of Kathy Jackson's website which gives a step-by-step pictorial on how to clean a handgun (pistol). It is very useful for beginners and seniors alike.

http://corneredcat.com/GunCare/clean-glock.aspx

After you've read the above, here are a few additional points.

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Grime gets stuck between the extractor and firing pin plate and needs to be cleaned with the appropriate tool. Do not use a screwdriver as it can damage the extractor. I use the Curved Locking Lug Pick for this purpose with a cotton patch.

Image

The Straight Locking Lug Pick can be used to clean the ring inside the barrel (from breech end) from where the grooves start. Residue tends to accumulate here too and it's difficult to remove it using normal brass brushes / pull-throughs.


.


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